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Alienmountain Imja Tse Expedition March/April 2010

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This trip will take us through the fabulous mountain scenery of the Solu Khumbu. We will take in the famous view of Everest from Gokyo Ri as we acclimatise, and then move off into the much less frequented valley of the

Imja Khola. Our objectives in this valley are, firstly, the base camp of the trekking peak Imja Tse, and secondly, the option of climbing this peak by its South Ridge (Alpine Grade PD+) over two days. Neither of these objectives requires any previous experience, although the ascent of Imja Tse is quite demanding and requires a certain level of fitness. For a small number of experienced climbers in the team, the final option is an alpine style attempt on the unclimbed North East face of Amphu East, on the other side of the Imja Khola valley from Imja Tse.

 

Imja Tse and Amphu East expedition 2010

Day 1 Arrive Kathmandu, transfer from airport to hotel (Sun 21 March 2010)

Day 2 Kathmandu, preparation for trek

Day 3 Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding or Monjo

Day 4 Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Day 5 Acclimatisation day in Namche Bazaar

Day 6 Namche Bazaar to Phortse Thanga 3500m

Day 7 Phortse Thanga to Dole 4200m

Day 8 Dole to Machhermo 4410m (Sun 28 March 2010)

Day 9 Machhermo to Gokyo 4750m

Day 10 Climb Gokyo Ri, trek to Dragnag 4700m

Day 11 Cross Cho La (5420m) to Dzongla

Day 12 Dzongla to Chhukung 4730m

Day 13 Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp, then on to High Camp 5500m

Day 14 Ascent of Island Peak 6189m and return to Base Camp

Day 15 Bad weather Day (Sun 4 April 2010)

Day 16 Island Peak Base Camp to Dingboche

Day 17 Dingboche to Namche

Day 18 Namche to Lukla

Day 19 Fly to Kathmandu

Day 20 Rest day in Kathmandu/ schools visits

Day 21 Visit schools/leprosy colony in Kathmandu

Day 22 Transfer from hotel to airport, fly home (Sun 11 April 2010)

 

 

On day 16, (Mon 5 April) as the main party leave for Dingboche, the Amphu climbers say farewell and head up the Imja Kola for their second climb.

Day 16 – 20 Amphu East 6205m N.E. Face

Day 21 Return to Chhukung, pick up porters, then on to Tengboche

Day 22 Phakding

Day 23 Lukla – fly KTM

Day 24 Rest day in KTM

Day 25 Fly UK  (Wed 14 April 2010)   

 

  The trip is priced for joining in Kathmandu on Sunday 21st March, and does not include international flights. In general, flights booked individually or in pairs are cheaper than if organised as a large group.  Anyone who wants to come out a few days earlier to see the sights or visit schools is very welcome – Louise and I will have been there since early February working in the primary schools around Khokhana which are supported by Birkdale School, Sheffield.      

Trek Gokyo Ri and Imja Tse base camp £1500

Imja Tse climb £1795

Imja Tse climb plus Amphu East £1895

 

The price includes a team of climbing sherpas including the
guide. Internal flights to Lukla, a fully supported tea house/camping trek, full board, porters, all camping equipment, park fee, peak permit and sufficient communal climbing gear for the ascent. Clients should have their own personal gear, harness, axe, crampons etc. 4 x airport transfers. Accommodation in Kathmandu at the Summit Hotel on twin share basis including breakfast and tax.

The price does not include BMC insurance (taken out individually), Nepali visa, airport taxes, meals in Kathmandu other than breakfast at the Summit, hire of any specialist equipment, laundry, tips or drinks.

 

 

For BMC insurance visit the site:  http://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/insurance/Policies.aspx#expedition

Those planning to climb Imja Tse need ‘alpine and ski’ cover, single trip, worldwide, which should cost £74. Those trekking to base camp only need ‘trek’ cover at £52. This cover provides you with full medical insurance, helicopter rescue cover and repatriation costs and is essential.

 

 

For Nepali visa information visit: http://www.nepembassy.org.uk/visa_information.html

A 30 day tourist visa costs £35, has a processing time of 2 weeks by post, and requires you to fill in the form from the site and send it with payment and passport to the Nepal embassy. The visa can be obtained at the airport upon entry to Nepal, but in our experience this process is a little fraught and best avoided!

 

The airport or departure tax often catches out first time visitors! You have to pay to leave Nepal, currently NR1695 ( approx £14 ), payable in cash at the airport.

 

 

Vaccinations should be completed around 8 weeks prior to departure. For info on these visit:

http://www.traveldoctor.co.uk/asia.htm#2ndb 

Most recent advice for short term visitors to Nepal recommends vaccination for Hepatitis A, Typhoid, Tetanus, Polio and Meningitis. Rabies is more optional, and depends partly on individual attitude to risk. Consult your local GP or practice nurse for the most recent information.

 

 

 

 

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This map gives a detailed picture of the possible routes on Imja Tse from Base Camp. The normal route is marked '1'

 

 

 

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